Surfing Through Life


By Paul Chafer


Awaiting the storm

Forming on distant shores.

Preparing myself for

The ocean’s tidal swell.

Opening my heart

To the rawest of elements.

I ride the anticipation

Of the coming waves.

Conquering the building

Fear as the water leaps high.

A great solid wall

Unfurling its rippling energy.

Through the tube,

Board skimming, skipping.

Flirting with danger,

Risking everything:

Inside a living

Hollow cocoon

Of thundering power.

Controlled fear beats

Inside my pumping heart,

Driving my adrenaline

Through to spiritual fulfillment.

On exiting the beast,

It rolls onward to its death.

Through its existence

We both lived, sharing

A unique oneness.

Children of nature within

A union of creation, so special,

It takes the breath away.

Savouring my exhilaration,

I see another wave being born,

And prepare to surf again.

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